May 27th

Dear Mother,

We will be at the Centre all day today. Steve (MBM) just arrived from Elkhart, and Jean-Victor and his wife Annie (French Canadians from Montréal) came by train because they are now on a new assignment, overseeing MCC Western Europe (based in Strasbourg, where they know Larry with Mennonite World Conference). Yves will arrive early afternoon by car with Linda Oyer, and others may also possibly come to attend the Annual General Meeting for the Centre Mennonite de Paris. They will do the usual things—look over the past and projected budgets and activities, and plan ahead. We were able to help this morning by organizing breakfast for people in the library, using ‘our’ kitchen to make coffee. Janice was at the bakery before it officially opened at 7:30, getting three baguettes. We served some good Swiss cheese, various yoguarts, muesli, fruit and my very strong black coffee.  Conversation flowed so easily that breakfast lasted a bit over two hours. Janie had covered the library tables with a colourful oil cloth.

Yesterday I finally had to admit that I had come down with an impressive cold. I have been hacking for days, but attributed it to unknown allergies because the symptoms would come and go rather than taking the customary course. I went downtown, but felt sufficiently tired to take Janice’s tiny camera instead of my bag; that was a sign I was coming down with something. I went to a number of bookstores but couldn’t find anything I really wanted to buy, and that was certainly another sign I wasn’t up to par. Then on the metro, I felt that my very bones were tired. I finally realized I should likely eat an early dinner and get some serious rest, so, with Janice’s loving help, food was soon on the table and I was in bed by 6:30. I read for perhaps an hour, learning more about the Camisard revolt in the very small mountain villages we had so enjoyed last spring in the south of France. I was then able to sleep and had a good night, getting 12 hours of rest.

I first went to St Michael's fountain, just on the Left Bank, across the river from Notre Dame.  This is a tourist hub of activity.

My first visits were to the Gibert Jeune book stores, a set of five all within two blocks, each featuring a different set of subjects.  These stores have obviously flourished off the university trade. 

In retrospect, I wish I had taken pictures in each of the bookstores, even though I would have to be somewhat stealthy about it all. I did take several shot in FNAC, one of the large chains in France which sometimes devotes considerable space to books. The out-of-focus photos are hardly helpful (I don't know Janice's camera as well as mine and had to be on automatic, no flash), but the aisles just keep spreading, on and on, subject after subject. In typical French fashion, some people practically use these stores like libraries, reading leisurely.

However, I think the types of books I want will be found in more specialized shops; I just don’t know which ones or where to look. I will try some shops around the Sorbonne University in a few days, and also ask Neal for suggestions.  One shot of Notre Dame Cathedral against the stormy sky:

I mentioned earlier that I lost one of my hearing aids. Today I really noticed the loss during breakfast. Without thinking, I sat at a place at the table which put my unaided ear toward that conversation, some people spoke softly, and I was struggling. Anyway, the story, as I know it.

Last Friday, I volunteered to cook for the Bloughs, knowing that Janice would contribute another of her fantastic salads. Janie made some suggestions about Parisian markets that might be open on a Friday, so we selected the one at Daguerre, perhaps 30 minutes from here (walking and métro). It was the right choice.  Unlike most older markets, this one is open daily, being essentially a block that is devoted to pedestrian traffic.  It has stores on both sides which open up totally and spill out onto the sidewalk/street.

Our plan was to walk about, see what looked interesting, buy it and cook it (sort of what We Five Brothers will be doing together in July at Paul’s home). As we strolled into the market street, my left hearing aid battery started beeping, signaling that it would soon cease operating. Unbelievably, I had neglected to bring spare batteries with me on the outing. Since I need all the audio information I can get when speaking with the merchants, I took the aid out of my ear and put it in one of my pockets. Which pocket, I shall never know, but quite possibly the one with my handkerchief or camera. My guess is that the hearing aid came out with the handkerchief, dropped to the pavement, and there would be no way I would have heard it fall.

Janice wanted me to be sure to 'get the cow' at the fromagerie (cheese store).

As we walked around, I decided that the rabbit looked really good, how could it not! The butcher was most helpful, cutting it up for me and asking whether I wanted the head, and then showed how he suggested he cut it (cleaved in two, yet hinged, but I’ll spare you the picture); this was obviously going to add flavor to the gravy. He was very concerned that I get it more properly wrapped in an hour or so, and that we store it correctly in a metal container, all of which I appreciated.

We then bought various veggies, even finding parsnips for the first time.

We also found a Moroccan shop which had interesting makings for a good salad.

The meal went beautifully. Janie showed me where to find a very old and extremely heavy cast iron Dutch oven which held everything—rabbit, small new white potatoes, parsnips, carrots, onions, garlic cloves, tiny turnips. It took a while to get the heavy pan warmed in the oven, but once it was at cooking temperature, it cooked superbly and uniformly. Those pans are very difficult to carry and manipulate but I would like to find one for myself in Canada. Paying shipping weight from here is out of the question.

Our meal started with some nibblies at perhaps 6:30, and by the time we were finished nibbling an assortment of cheese collected from our various fridges, three hours had pasted most pleasantly. We were able to eat outside, under the rose arbor just under the library window, without sweaters. Neighbours to the east of us were more true to real French customs and began their meal at 8:00. When we turned in at 11 p.m., they were still going strong, obviously enjoying the start of the long Pentecost weekend. I just find I need to eat before then if I am going to sleep well.

It is raining as I write, so I’m happy to be inside, sitting by the window, watching the greenery develop even deeper hues. The sky is a uniform gray, the type we so often see in Vancouver, but I know it will change shortly.

With love from us both, Evan