Yesterday (Tuesday the 25th) we got up earlier than usual, had a light breakfast and headed off to the métro to wend our way, via three trains, to Gare de Nord, the train station that generally services places north of Paris. On our third try, I managed to get return tickets for us from the yellow machines, catching the next train to Amiens.
I had seen a picture or two of the Gothic cathedral in this city and hoped to visit it someday. We were on a somewhat local TER train which got us to the city in about 80 minutes, enough time to read the Herald Tribune in English, to see what the States now thinks of Europe. I wonder which Europe they are writing about because it’s not the one I see over here, but that’s the way journalism often is.
When we arrived, I got out my pocket compass to ensure we had our directions in mind, and then we walked to the cathedral. It is a wonderful structure, soaring high into the sky even today, but one can only imagine how this seemed to people in the 1200s when there was nothing else nearly this large in sight, or perhaps even in their entire lifetime. After determining that the cathedral would indeed be open all day and there was no Mass precluding tourists, we went for those little cups of coffee, basically one mouthful but exquisite beyond belief. I devoted the next 90 minutes to photographing the interior and Janice explored some of the local canals and gardens, shooting for an eventual blog.
We met at the front of the cathedral at 1:00 and Janice led me to a lovely stretch of the river which featured a long row of cafés and restaurants. We finally selected a busy one (always a good sign) with local businessmen (good sign number 2) and got one of the last tables under the canopy close to the river. We just sat there, looking around and smiling. We both had local dishes but I forgot to photograph the menu so we haven’t a clue what the things were called. Both were featuring local foods from that part of Picardie. The wonderfully soft fat French fries made from new potatoes were done to perfection. I had some sort of pork stew done with cream and Janice had a plate of local specialties (terrine, ficelle Picardie made of cheese, thin dough and parsley all wrapped up together).
We then walked a bit to see the canal with houses very close on both sides. I liked the way you get from the upper floor to the main floor by using an open staircase which goes out over the water. Taking the staircase out of the house gives you considerably more space for rooms inside the house.
I really enjoyed photographing in the cathedral. Janie Blough once expressed interest in the mazes or labyrinths in cathedrals like Chartres, so when I saw there was a beautiful labyrinth in Amiens and that the chairs were carefully removed, I took a few pictures. It was interesting to see people being unable to restrain themselves from walking at least part of it, and a few souls did the entire route while impatient spouses simply had to wait. I believe the original idea was to pray and meditate while walking this pilgrimage, letting time stand still while you follow the course of life to its ultimate conclusion.
I took 346 pictures and threw out only 8 for bad exposures, so future selections will be determined by the structures of the photographs, which will be both fun and a challenge. I met a retired French history prof from the States who was also using a Canon camera, so I complimented him on it and we struck up an interesting conversation. I then offered to let him use my new wide-angle for shooting the nave, which he gladly did. He returned, a convert.
We returned to the train station for our 18h11 train, getting some ice cream on the way because the day was humid and hot, muggy, obviously getting ready for some rain. On the train, we selected one of the old-fashioned cars which is divided into compartments of three seats facing three, the sliding glass door closing to keep our noise. We were finally joined by three university students who worked on their laptops the rest of the trip. For reasons not clear to us, the train stopped for about 40 minutes. The Bloughs told us that some men are stealing some of the copper wiring and selling it, which obviously messes up the train signals. I noticed that we no sooner arrived in Paris Nord than some mechanics walked up to the train engine to investigate something. When we walked into the station proper, it was terribly crowded because several trains had not come/gone on schedule, right during rush hour. This included a TGV. The métro was crowded so I stood on the three trains for the 50-minute ride home.
We had a simple salad supper by 9 p.m. and got caught up with the Bloughs on their day’s activities and ours. I slept reasonably well but my cold is settling in (sore throat, sniffles, the works) and I cough a lot. Today, Neal is teaching all day at Vaux (I’ll join him next week to take photos of students), Janie has two English classes (so I clear out of the library for the morning class), Janice will be cataloguing as usual, people will soon start arriving for Thursday afternoon’s meeting of the Centre’s Board of Directors (which I will photograph). Since it is raining lightly today, I’m thinking of going to some bookstores to stock up on French history books for the winter. I’m reading a very good one on the revolt of the Camisards (Protestants) in the Cevennes where we were last summer. I would like to purchase it for my little library of French books.
Here’s hoping you are enjoying warmer weather, reasonably good health and good company.
With love from us both, Evan.
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