Kaysersberg wins "Le Village préféré des Français"

Dear Mark and Amy,

Sometimes we just get lucky, there's no other way to look at it.  Several days ago, we took the wrong road and, even so, came upon a pharmacy where we obtained some sorely-needed sun screen and mosquito bite ointment.  As luck would have it, the young man switched to English almost immediately, and then suggested that we be sure to visit Kaysersberg because it was close by and very beautiful, and . . . it was going to be featured on TV (France 2).  Edith, our delightful hostess at our B and B agreed and volunteered to print off the schedule of events for us. We had already seen the village, but thought visiting for an evening event might also be interesting.

We ate a light dinner in our suite of rooms before heading off to Kaysersberg, getting there by about 6:30.  We easily found free parking, and although there were many people gathering, it was far from being overwhelming.  Basically, all the action was happening in the square in front of the church.  Men were busy setting up tables and benches, vendors were preparing to provide hot tartes flambées (initially it seems to be similar to pizza, but with the thinnest bread crust imaginable and Alsatian ingredients on top, including local Munster cheese, a thick heavy cream, etc.), various local Alsatian wines (including the bubbly crémants, my favourite).

We saw the poster inviting people to 'vote for Kaysersberg!' by mobile phone.  The village getting the most votes wins.  It's a somewhat strange setup, but has been a favourite TV programme for years. There were 13 (15?) villages in the competition, so the TV audience got to see special scenes from each of the nominated places.  Frankly, all were very attractive.  We especially enjoyed seeing the village in Corsica, possibly where Vivian and Stephen had just been.

We parked the car and just followed people (hardly a crowd just yet), and headed toward the church.

One whole section was set up in the square where children could play local games.  Here we see a lad playing 10-pin bowling, only you roll the wooden ball down a wooden ramp.

Yes, her boyfriend finally showed up.  She was well-dressed for the evening.  Other people were far more informal.

To 'kill time' until the TV show began, a local dance club demonstrated various Alsatian dances.  I enjoyed watching, remembering that Mom used to say how much she enjoyed 'folk games' when she was a teenager in Illinois.  I had to wonder if she danced any of these dances or if hers were more from Lorraine.

This gal was the youngest in the troupe, but seemed to be executing the moves perfectly.

The accordion players kept a steady beat.  The women can keep those black hats--no thanks.

Storks are important. They nearly died out after World War II because the towers and tall buildings where they like to nest were destroyed.  But now they're back, guarding large nests.  This one was made of wood and seemed to be quite content.

The next generation is interested in learning the dance moves.  I enjoyed watching the children being caught up in the spirit of the evening, likely long after their bedtime.

Several hundred people were seated at tables, enjoying their tartes flambées.  I wanted to get one, but the line was so long, and then what do I do?  The tables were long since filled, I have this heavy camera . . . and I really did not need a second dinner.  I suspect Janice was disappointed.  We'll have to go back.

I could not hear what these grandparents were saying, but this little guy was asleep on his grandmother's shoulders.  He simply did not wake up.  She gave up and took him home.  It was so loving, so cute, so perfect to photograph.

This mother/grand mother brought two tartes flambées, which was quite the accomplishment, and she knew it.  The one tarte stuck to the other, but the people got them separated and enjoyed a good chuckle.

There were various Alsatian wines available for purchase by the glass or bottle.  It is clearly part of the culture, in ways we cannot imagine.  I had to wonder if this man was being forced to drink a competitor's wine.

By about 10:00 my back was getting tired, so we gave up and headed home.  By the time we had brushed our teeth, put on our PJs, etc., they were about ready to show Kaysersberg on the TV, so even Janice watched (possibly the first programme she has watched this year).  In brief, Kaysersberg won the competition, getting the most votes, being this year's Village Most Preferred by the French!  We were (almost) there.  How good can it get?

With love from us both,
Evan

Kaysersberg, Alsace

Dear Mark and Amy,

We have enjoyed our B and B in Ammerschwir.  Edith was a very kind hostess with clear French, providing us useful information and a good continental breakfast that easily lasted until a late lunch.  She even gave me a small booklet of Alsatian recipes which I am eager to use.  We had a bedroom, our own WC and a separate kitchenette, which we used for supper each of the three evenings.  We find that a main meal at noon in the Alsace is about all the rich food we can accommodate (we are obviously getting old).

Edith and others suggested that we visit Kaysersberg, a small picturesque village on the Route des Vins (Wine Route).  This route is essentially a single country road which winds through one vineyard after another.  The land devoted to vineyards in the Alsace is never more than 2 km in width, but it stretches for quite a few kilometers. In order to maintain high standards, only seven types of grapes can be grown, and in very specific places with specific soil conditions.  Our Vancouver neighbours are coming to Alsace soon, partly because he loves going from one wine tasting establishment to another.  I have enjoyed some splendid dry whites and had a very good Pinot noir (though it is certainly not my favourite grape).  But I digress.

We visited Kaysersberg three times this trip.  It was worth it.  We enjoyed the village itself, with all the beautiful half-timbered houses, the shops, the mountains very close to the village, and of course the vineyards, which go right up to the town limits.

There are numerous hotels and more places to eat than would seem necessary. But the tourist season will soon be in full swing.  We were just a bit ahead of the rush.

I think that a little room like this one would make a lovely place for intimate dining, or reading a book, but likely too bright for computer work.

Or, maybe two such corner rooms, one for him and another for her?

Flowers were everywhere.  These were in a typical flower box, the type that one sees outside so many houses. 

The fountain in the square was inviting on this very hot day.

 

Time to climb up to the chateau and look around.  My smile was not quite as wide as theirs when I realized the work that was ahead.

Against my better judgment, I also climbed the tight circular stairs that led up to the top of the tower.  I knew this would be the best place to get photos of the surrounding landscape.  However, one section of the very narrow stairs was in total darkness, possibly because of a missing light bulb.  I let someone go ahead of me and followed the sound of their footsteps.  Not a good place for me to enjoy an attack of claustrophobia. Two people could barely pass (one going up, one going down) if neither was a retired German male.  Those guys make me feel absolutely slender.

I'll include photos of something even the gals in Kaysersberg likely never get to see, a very special recycling project.

We noticed that some of the roofs sloop away at the bottom, but we're not sure why.

Wooden shoes were useful in olden days, though I have to wonder how long it took to get one's feet toughened up enough to wear them.  Making these shoes was a refined art, often requiring specialized machines and templates.  Now some people like to hang them outside or put flowers in them.

Many regions of France have specialized political movements or parties which focus on regional concerns.  "Vote Alsatian, vote for our Land" reminds me of other regions having people interested in forming their own country, including Canada's Quebec.

I will end with some shots in the church.  It was quite dark inside, so I used longer exposures, resting the camera on the pew and then used the shutter delay.  It more or less worked.

We're back in Paris by now, safe and sound, rented car returned intact and no speeding tickets added to my collection (I never went above 170 km/h, but that was downhill on a 6-land road with nobody in sight--and Janice was snoozing).  It feels good to be doing some cooking again.  I loaded up at the local market, but was unable to convince the butcher to sell me what looked like his stew beef.  OK, so that's what he used to make beef burgers/hamburgers, but I really couldn't see the difference between him selling the stuff to me 'as is' (out of a bag which he surely purchased elsewhere) or as hamburger.  His argument that it was too hot for anyone to be making pot-au-feu (a type of beef stew) didn't convince me because 'heat' seemed to be my problem, not his.  Granted, my French is wretched.  So I went to good ol' Monoprix, where the guy couldn't have cared less how hot it was outside, he gladly sold me cuts of veal that work nicely (and the veal was on sale).  Our fridge is loaded with Alsatian wines, the stew was cooked for 3 hours, Janice is hungry, Neal is off giving yet another talk in Paris so Janie will join us for supper.  Therefore, I'll sign off,

With love from us both,
Evan