We never got to show you the Rue de Turenne during your last visit. Even though it is typical of so many other Parisian streets, it has become a favourite of mine. The street is named after Henri de la Tour d'Auvergne (Janice loves Canteloube's Songs of the Auvergne). He was the Vicomte de Turenne, which is in the Limousin region of France. Raised a Protestant (Calvinist), he soon developed interest in the military, which for someone of his social standing meant directing armies rather than fighting in their front lines. I am sorry to say that his first major battle was the seige at 's-Hertogenbosch, where some very important music manuscripts for Pierre de la Rue were commissioned and stored. I know they survived because I studied them in the 1980s. He was involved in the battle which brought the Thirty Years War to its conclusion in Germany, and was responsible for the destruction of much of Strasbourg and the Alsace, after which, Janice's Anabaptist ancestors had to flee to the south. His tomb is in Les Invalides, which I mentioned in my previous blog. So here I am, a pacifist, drawn to a street named after a famous military figure who didn't care a fig about my favourite Renaissance composer, our brand of religion, or Janice's favourite wines (Alsatian).
This part of the Marais was best known for making clothing, with a significant role being played initially by the local Jewish community. I enjoy seeing the suits and shirts, but neglected to photograph any (still sleepy). This casual shot comes the closest--an ad that is seen all over the city this week.
The street (and several connecting streets also included here without being named) have numerous cafés. Since the day was the hottest yet, people were seated outside, enjoying refreshments, hoping for the occasional breeze.
As you know, café tables are typically set in very tight arrangements in order to accommodate more customers. This means that intimate conversations are occasionally overheard by someone with good ears at the next table.
This establishment will open later in the day, but the bottle testifies to joys past and holds promise for the future.
The owner of this cute dog was delighted when I took a photo. I really wanted a photo of the stately elderly lady, but knew that I would have to settle for her beloved dog.
I may end up with hundreds of photos of people using their mobile phones on the streets. I am wondering if I should start purposefully collecting such photos: walking, biking, sitting, supposedly conversing, even driving. Phones are everywhere, even more so than in Vancouver. Possibly a theme for an exhibition?
Dressy blouse, classy skirt, high heels, purse strapped around her shoulder--hardly the outfit one expects of a motorcyclist. But women are increasingly using scooters and motorcycles to get around the city.
This tourist looked so utterly exhausted and bewildered that I had to take her picture. Actually, I wanted to take her to a café and get her off her poor aching feet. Any sensible person would have had a lemonade rather than try to add yet another street/monument to the list of things to do that hot afternoon. But tourists are pressed for time, often assuming they may never return to this place, so the pressure to move forward is powerful indeed.
As you know from the photos in our living room, one of my interests is photographing graffiti. Recently, I have also been including shots of torn posted bills and ads since they too can form interesting abstract designs.
Finally, two shots that are rather more peaceful. Ivy is growing nicely (unless of course you own the building, then ivy can be a weed). I like the way it makes buildings appear less hot in the summer, and when you look out the window, the ivy leaves give the sense of one being surrounded by vegetation.
I believe that we are now looking east, across the broad Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire, which runs parallel to the rue de Turenne. Time to catch the No. 8 métro. I initially set out on this trip in order to go over pronunciation of Renaissance French texts with Michel, who was very helpful and patient with me. I need to work on a few more words at tempo, which I do while using Neal's metronome and electronic keyboard. Then I think I will be ready for Friday's brief rehearsal.
The heat is supposed to break, and I can't wait,
with love from us both,
Evan
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