We have enjoyed our B and B in Ammerschwir. Edith was a very kind hostess with clear French, providing us useful information and a good continental breakfast that easily lasted until a late lunch. She even gave me a small booklet of Alsatian recipes which I am eager to use. We had a bedroom, our own WC and a separate kitchenette, which we used for supper each of the three evenings. We find that a main meal at noon in the Alsace is about all the rich food we can accommodate (we are obviously getting old).
Edith and others suggested that we visit Kaysersberg, a small picturesque village on the Route des Vins (Wine Route). This route is essentially a single country road which winds through one vineyard after another. The land devoted to vineyards in the Alsace is never more than 2 km in width, but it stretches for quite a few kilometers. In order to maintain high standards, only seven types of grapes can be grown, and in very specific places with specific soil conditions. Our Vancouver neighbours are coming to Alsace soon, partly because he loves going from one wine tasting establishment to another. I have enjoyed some splendid dry whites and had a very good Pinot noir (though it is certainly not my favourite grape). But I digress.
We visited Kaysersberg three times this trip. It was worth it. We enjoyed the village itself, with all the beautiful half-timbered houses, the shops, the mountains very close to the village, and of course the vineyards, which go right up to the town limits.
There are numerous hotels and more places to eat than would seem necessary. But the tourist season will soon be in full swing. We were just a bit ahead of the rush.
I think that a little room like this one would make a lovely place for intimate dining, or reading a book, but likely too bright for computer work.
Or, maybe two such corner rooms, one for him and another for her?
Flowers were everywhere. These were in a typical flower box, the type that one sees outside so many houses.
The fountain in the square was inviting on this very hot day.
Time to climb up to the chateau and look around. My smile was not quite as wide as theirs when I realized the work that was ahead.
Against my better judgment, I also climbed the tight circular stairs that led up to the top of the tower. I knew this would be the best place to get photos of the surrounding landscape. However, one section of the very narrow stairs was in total darkness, possibly because of a missing light bulb. I let someone go ahead of me and followed the sound of their footsteps. Not a good place for me to enjoy an attack of claustrophobia. Two people could barely pass (one going up, one going down) if neither was a retired German male. Those guys make me feel absolutely slender.
I'll include photos of something even the gals in Kaysersberg likely never get to see, a very special recycling project.
We noticed that some of the roofs sloop away at the bottom, but we're not sure why.
Wooden shoes were useful in olden days, though I have to wonder how long it took to get one's feet toughened up enough to wear them. Making these shoes was a refined art, often requiring specialized machines and templates. Now some people like to hang them outside or put flowers in them.
Many regions of France have specialized political movements or parties which focus on regional concerns. "Vote Alsatian, vote for our Land" reminds me of other regions having people interested in forming their own country, including Canada's Quebec.
I will end with some shots in the church. It was quite dark inside, so I used longer exposures, resting the camera on the pew and then used the shutter delay. It more or less worked.
We're back in Paris by now, safe and sound, rented car returned intact and no speeding tickets added to my collection (I never went above 170 km/h, but that was downhill on a 6-land road with nobody in sight--and Janice was snoozing). It feels good to be doing some cooking again. I loaded up at the local market, but was unable to convince the butcher to sell me what looked like his stew beef. OK, so that's what he used to make beef burgers/hamburgers, but I really couldn't see the difference between him selling the stuff to me 'as is' (out of a bag which he surely purchased elsewhere) or as hamburger. His argument that it was too hot for anyone to be making pot-au-feu (a type of beef stew) didn't convince me because 'heat' seemed to be my problem, not his. Granted, my French is wretched. So I went to good ol' Monoprix, where the guy couldn't have cared less how hot it was outside, he gladly sold me cuts of veal that work nicely (and the veal was on sale). Our fridge is loaded with Alsatian wines, the stew was cooked for 3 hours, Janice is hungry, Neal is off giving yet another talk in Paris so Janie will join us for supper. Therefore, I'll sign off,
With love from us both,
Evan
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